The tight-knit communities of Vancouver Island North are located on the vibrant landscapes of the traditional territory of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people. These Indigenous people still live here today—their cultural traditions and millenia-old knowledge of the region very much alive, sometimes combined with contemporary expressions and practices. Within the Kwakwakaʼwakw people, there are several First Nation communities, such as the Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw First Nation and the Kwakiutl First Nation in Port Hardy, each with their own stories to share. As a guest on these lands, you are warmly invited to connect with Indigenous history and living culture in a respectful way through authentic Indigenous-owned businesses, cultural venues, and storytelling experiences, many of which are rooted in sustainable values.
And if you’re able to time your visit with a festival like ‘Yalis Movable Feast or FILOMI Days, you’ll join our residents in celebration and to bear witness drawn into vivid expressions of story, music, art, dance, tradition, and more.
On day one, you’ll arrive in the town of Port McNeill, where you can pause for a delicious coffee at the popular, independently-owned Mugz 2.0 Coffee House before taking the ferry to Alert Bay, home to the ʼNa̱mǥis First Nation. Check into The Cabins at Alert Bay, owned and operated by the Nation, for a sanctuary with private views of ocean, islands, and wide open sky. You’ll be met with a warm G̱ilakas’la (welcome)!
Once settled, head to the U’mista Cultural Centre. In warmer, drier weather (or if you’re bundled up, rain jacket on), why not indulge in the hour walk over? You can walk along paved pathways, through the main town, and along the waterfront—keeping an eye out for local businesses you want to stop in and support later. Or you can make use of the trails, including those through the ecological park, to get a better sense of the heart and natural charm of the island. Look out for the World’s Tallest Totem Pole shortly before you arrive at the Centre!
Spend the rest of the day at the U’mista Cultural Centre unhurried. Take your time really listening, observing, and reflecting on the stories of heritage and resilience, and appreciating the returned regalia, carvings, and world-renowned Potlach Collection (no photos allowed). If you visit in July or August, joining the (ticketed) experience of seeing the T̓sasała Cultural Group in the ‘Na̱mg̱is Big House on a Saturday is a must.
Start your second day with a warming drink at Culture Shock Interactive Gallery, before perusing the expansive venue filled with the creations of Indigenous artisans. Here, you’ll find everything from jewellery featuring abalone and copper, artworks, and apparel, rooted in Indigenous values and traditions. By buying directly from Indigenous makers, you’re helping to join us in celebrating and appreciating authentic artistic practices of culture.
Once you’ve thoughtfully chosen a piece to take home, take the ferry back to Port McNeill and make the 30 minute drive to Port Hardy. Here, you’ll check into the Kwa’lilas Hotel, owned and operated by the Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw First Nation, where an impressive, intricate 18-foot copper wall greets you—just once of many pieces of the hotel’s carefully-selected Indigenous artworks.
Have dinner on-site at ha’me’ , the elevated, fine dining restaurant where culture and culinary experience collide. Nestle into a booth surrounded by vibrant masks and salmon carvings and be taken on a sensory journey through a West Coast inspired Indigenous fine dining menu that pays homage to the incredible local bounty from land and sea.
On day three, it’s time to take your connection to culture into the outdoors and get on the water with Sea Wolf Adventures. You’ll be picked up by shuttle in Port Hardy and taken to Port McNeill, where you’ll depart from the marina for an invigorating full-day responsible wildlife watching adventure and cultural tour into the majestic Great Bear Rainforest.
Let your eyes drift across quiet inlets to catch on eagles resting in treetops, scan remote beaches for a glimpse of bear and wolf, and tune into the churning waters as you glide through them in case the surface breaks with a fin or flipper. The air is different here—cedar mingling with salt—inviting you to be deeply present as you bear witness to stories of history and living culture, language, and meaning interwoven with the landscape.
On your return, refuel at the nax’id’ Pub for comfort food and another opportunity to soak up the warm atmosphere of the Kwa’lilas Hotel.
Learn more about imbuing your trip with principles from The Wild Pledge here. And make sure to check out how you can #LivetheWildPledge with discounts and rewards for local businesses, including the U’mista Cultural Centre and Kwa’lilas Hotel.